
Enormous
strides in modern winemaking have essentially
eliminated "bad wine" from our shores.
Sure, there are some pretty funky wines out there
but we rarely see any. Most American importers
and wine merchants carefully and pragmatically
edit their selections to avoid them. Unfortunately,
sometimes the editing is too careful and eliminates
well-made, distinctive, possibly even controversial
wines. Too many shops and restaurants offer a
sea of "flawless" but boring wine, from
wherever, much of which is overpriced. Some people
are tone deaf; some people have stone palates.
I believe that in both cases that is not the norm.
Some people may not know better or care and buy
only well recognized "brands". That's
fine if there is no interest in looking further.
My contention is that people who are really "into
wine" want to find the best, most flavorful
wine at the most favorable price. As I often say,
wine is a commodity like any other. We all want
the most bang for our buck at various price points.
And regardless of disposable income, no one wants
to overpay.
Anyone
who has a genuine interest in wine should attempt
to broaden their palate by trying new things.
Newsletters from me and merchants like me attempt
to feature interesting, diverse wines that have
good price to quality ratios. These are often
somewhat obscure wines which you may not have
known about but which might be fun to try. The
Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator have "best
buy" lists in a similar vein. There are inexpensive,
absolutely delicious wines from nearly every country.
France, Italy, Spain, Australia, South Africa,
New Zealand, Portugal all offer tasty, interesting
wines of character at affordable prices. Many
distinguish themselves from flawless, "squeaky
clean wines" that offer little more pleasure
than soda pop and have no soul.
A
recent trip to California was enlightening. If
I lived there undoubtedly I would drink far more
California wine. There are values from California,
Crush from Mill Creek and Rancho Sisquoc's River
Red are good examples. But too many are over priced
and "under wined". Going from tasting
room to tasting room looking for new suppliers
was, frankly, disappointing. We were under whelmed
by most of what we tried and perplexed by the
pricing. That said, I am very happy with the people
I have been doing business with for years and
happy with the wines offered on sale this month.
There are some exceptional wines, such as those
from Mount Eden Estate, Forchini, Mill Creek,
Ottimino, Robert Mueller, Inmann Family Winery
and more. Both my self and Gregg, on a separate
trip, found some new to us producers who are making
exciting wines that do have soul. But there are
far too many who offer mundane wines that cost
way too much. Not all California wines are equal
within price points. As much care must be given
to choosing them as is needed in Burgundy and
elsewhere. If the emperor is running around naked,
someone should have the nerve to say, "Put
on some clothes!" With our dollar at historic,
frustrating lows daily against the Euro, making
importing wine challenging, there is a great opportunity
for California wineries to prosper. But they still
have to earn our trust and loyalty.